11/10/2023 0 Comments Hayward control panel rottenThis prevents galvanic corrosion in thinner metals by bonding iron rebar in pool structure and all metal in equipment area to a galvanized Steele grounding rod that draws electrons evenly through all metal ( known as the bonding grid) your pool company and Hayward should have informed you of these issues from the original Install which has been common knowledge in our industry since 2011.Alternate Part #'s HAYW3H250FDN Product Descriptionįor In-Ground Pools and Spas - Electronic Ignition Dual Thermostat This has nothing to do and is seperate from grounding. You also need to make sure the heater is properly bonded with an 8-10 guage solid copper wire at the external binding lug. Remember salt is good for “us and the environment “ Not good for natural stone that is not polished and or sealed nor any types of Metal. If a checkvalve is present but is the tradition clear glass jandy checkvalve with a metal spring is used. The solution is simple, an all plastic(impervious to hydrogen gas released from salt cell or extremely corrosive tablets that are 99 percent tricolor) prevents the water from backflowing and rotting out your heater. If you have a d.e filter and have ever noticed a bunch of d.e appearing out of nowhere around your main drain, same issue. Even if installed on the discharge side of the heater, every time you empty the pump basket, your causing what’s known as “back pressure” Injecting air in the system causing water to backflow and sit directly inside the heat exchanger. But copper and Cupronickel haven’t changed in the last 20 years, so why is this all of a sudden an issue? Why are heaters from the 80s and even 70s with the same metal alloys lasting this long? It all goes back to our ignorance as an industry? We finally realized the problem in the mid - late 2000s when the only thing that changed was chemical feeders. It’s the same issue with all major brands and not just Hayward. We didn’t have this issue in our Industry until the late 90s when builders installed chemical feeders or salt chlorine generators on every equipment Pad. Two things salt destroys, Natural Stone and metal. In our environment we have to keep our salt generators at 60 percent chlorine out put regularly and 100 percent 1 day week. Your salt is definitely the issue regardless if the heat exchanger is cupronickel or copper. In the last 16 years I’ve been repairing and replacing pool heaters in the Houston area, we’ve encountered that issue thousands of times. Your Hayward rep should be capable of making this diagnosis. Personally, I would have to examine the exchanger and look at the erosion, or corrosion to make a better determination. So when the pump turns off, there isn't and incredibly high concentration of chlorine in the cell unless the flow switch is stuck closed and continues to create chlorine while the pump is off. A salt cell only generates about 2-3 ppm at average flow rate (some commercial units more). Hayward does not require a check valve between the heater, and Salt cell. I think you are silly to suggest that they "Dig up the return lines at the pad and make them evenly spaced." This is incredibly not an issue, while being a pet peeve of your's nobody else really cares.īesides the easiest way to resolve this it to tip the tee valve vertically and then looping it over to the right line. People tend to overuse clear glue have it run all over the pipes. But a clean job looks good regardless of the color of glue used. I expect people that do the pipe assembly do a nice neat job with a gray glue. I won't let people use clear glue above grade, because it's easy to forget joints. The Tee valve not being centered is splitting hairs, and it's elevation is insignificant. The check valve that you see is not for protecting the heater, but to keep the spa from draining (odd way to do it teeing off the pool like like that). The 90 being too close to the heater is not an issue. This should cure the heater core issues and make your equipment pad less of an eyesore. Blue is really for underground plumbing where moisture contact is more prevalent.Ĭheck for stray voltage as I mentioned in my earlier post. I hope they used flex as it will make this easier. Move the pool sweep ine to the other side of the return lines to be cloer to the booster pump. Dig up the return lines at the pad and make them evenly spaced. Then a stub and the check valve and another stub and then the TurboCell. Recommendations: Starting from the return side of the heater, extend that line about a foot then drop the line to the pad with the 1st 90. The lack of extra pipe between fitting is not conducive to repairs. The valve directing return water isn't centered,The return lines are not evenly spaced and too high off the ground. The check valve should have come before the TurboCell. 1st 90 after the heater is too close to the heater. The link is missing the h in http though.
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